Choosing the Right Chainsaw
One of the biggest problems with today's range of both petrol and electric chainsaws, is the choice and range that manufacturers offer, in general chain saws are split into categories for intended use:
Entry level - These machines tend to be around the 20 to 30cc with bar lengths up to 16"
Semi-Professional - Offer larger bar lengths and can be up to 60cc
Professional - Chainsaws in this category will offer engine sizes of 60cc and above, can have bar lengths in excess of 36" and are available as standard rear handle, or tree surgeons saws will have Top Handles
Most chainsaw purchases will be for the home operator, with today's fuel and heating costs rising year on year more and more of us are converting or adding wood burning systems to heat our homes - a chainsaw then becomes a vital part of this process. Burning wood can, if done correctly be sustainable, and even help with environmental issues, woodlands will always have fallen trees, or require maintenance in order to help them, wood is generally available through these channels, however burning wood requires planning, you need to maintain a stock of seasoned logs in order for them to burn effectively and generate heat to their full potential.
Seasoned wood is often from the previous years stock, it has been cut and then left, in a dry area but somewhere that allows the air to pass through it, this will keep the wood dry in the heart, the ideal solution would be 4 corner posts with a roof on top, the bulk of the rain would be kept off the timber, but the wind could still pass through. Ash is probably the only timber that can be cut, logged and burnt without the need to season it, very handy should your stock deplete due to extreme cold weather conditions, try to keep Ash as a backup, leaving you more room in your wood store for timber that does require seasoning.
The Chainsaw:
Small tree felling and home logging - you need a saw with a 12 or 14" bar, driven by a 20 to 30cc engine or an 1800w electric motor or above, this ensures that the chainsaw has enough power to cut through wet timber, most modern saws have automatic chain lubrication this ensures that the chain will run freely and compensate when the saw requires more chain oil, some saws allow the operator to determine the flow rate, this can be useful when cutting harder timber such as oak.
Remember that a longer bar and chain than 14" for logging is very rarely required, as a general rule you can cut double your bar length. There are a few saws available on the market specifically designed for the home user that have up to 45cc engines, the Makita DCS4610 is one, such machines are ideal for harder wood, with enough power, however weight is increased.
Don't be put off buying electric saws, with today's motor technology in the entry range they will often perform as well as petrol, the plus being very quiet operation, no emissions, ideal if you live in towns or cities, electric does have the disadvantage where it does require a power source, either direct from mains or by generator.
Points worth considering:
Are you in a built up area?
Will the saw be used exclusively at your home?
Is noise a factor for you or your neighbours?
Have you a convenient power source available for use outside, or can you have one fitted with minimal inconvenience and cost?
Is the saw to be used once every few weeks in season?
If the answer is yes to most of the above, then electric would be a better option for you, they are often much cheaper to purchase and running costs can be reduced by 60% or more.
Will the saw be used away from home; do you go out to gather wood from local farms or woodlands?
Do you often cut or fell hard woods?
Do you live in a more rural area?
Will you be using the saw on a regular basis, perhaps once or twice every 2 weeks?
Do you run other petrol garden machinery?
Have you experience with 2-stroke and in particular chainsaws?
If it's a yes to all or most of the above then petrol would be a more suitable option, greater freedom is one of the biggest plus points for chainsaw operators that require freedom when out-sourcing timber. Many manufacturers of today's chain saws have to meet very strict levels in terms of emissions, whilst this can cause them problems and cost with the requirements, it is a huge plus point for the end user - many new saws from the top end manufacturers are extremely good value for money, whilst £180 to £300 may seem expensive, compared to the £99 options available, you do need to consider some important factors when making your decision:
Build quality - how is the saw constructed?
Spares - a chain will generally give you 4 or 5 re-sharpens before it needs replacing, each 3rd chain you should also replace the bar - can spares be obtained through the outlet you purchased from?
Safety features, ease of starting and how long will it last?
Vibration levels - how will it affect you after a days work?
Professional manufacturers offer the complete range of spares when you need them; we carry a comprehensive range of chains and bars for the machines we stock in our landscape accessories section.
A quality brand is good for you more than the manufacturer, why is simple, they are under increased pressure to offer an affordable machine for everyone, commercial or home user, this means that you often end up with a chainsaw in the entry level band, but that is constructed to commercial standards, all metal crank casings, rather than polymer plastic - the result is a machine that will far out perform and out-last many others, an example is Echo, they only produce commercially rated machinery, so as a domestic operator you are given a market leading 5 year warranty, so your £250 - £300 spread over 5 years is far more cost effective than £99 per year.
Makita offer a 45cc entry level "home user" chainsaw, when in fact this would also perform in a semi-professional environment, the reason was simple, the emission laws forced Makita to remove the 30cc machine from production - it was more cost effective for them to take the engine from a higher grade machine, that does meet emissions levels and use it in the entry saw.
Hints and Tips for maintaining your saw:
Check the tension of the chain before each use, and during use - a loose chain will not cut as well, it will damage the bar, and more importantly has a greater risk of jumping out of the bar with possible injury a result.
Keep plenty of chain oil in the tank and carry it with you when you are working away, make sure you use the correct chain oil, this keeps the chain and bar lubricated extending the life of both and ensures ease of cutting.
If you use a file to sharpen your chain, use a sharpening kit with a guide, this maintains a more accurate degree on the cut so the saw will continue to cut straight, should a chain be sharpened incorrectly the saw will try and pull one way or the other, reducing the chains life and making the saw work harder than it needs.
When a new chain is fitted, tension it, make one or two cuts, then re-tension, the new chain will stretch after a few minutes of use.
Only use manufacturer approved oils and stick to the mix guides in the operators book - a new pot and piston will be anything from £100+
When you put a petrol saw up for a month or more, empty the fuel tank, then start and run the saw until it stops, this clears all fuel from the carb, 2 stroke fuel can separate and cause the oil to stick inside the carb, over time this will cause starting and running problems, with higher service costs due to cleaning charges.
Like a vacuum cleaner petrol machinery has filters, these need cleaning regularily, in-between services, remove the filter and clean it, change the spark plug at least every 12 months.
Keep an eye on the pull cord, if it starts to fray, get it replaced, it's not expensive to have done, and will eliminate it breaking right at the wrong moment!
Lastly, remember to be safe, if your leaving your home to fetch timber, take a first aid kit, wear the correct boots and safety clothing, these have all been designed to protect you, starter safety kits are available from just over £100.
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